Christchurch has long history with the Antarctic

leading the way from the airport

Christchurch is home to the Antarctic research offices of New Zealand, United States and Italy’s Antarctic programmes, and artists, tourists and explorers have all prepared for their challenges in the city. This means the city’s rich heritage is reflected in museums, walkways, statues and even an Indian Totem Pole of friendship.

The International Antarctic Centre has a rich introduction to the continent and an acknowledgment of the explorers who, over three centuries, have been spellbound by the awe-inspiring, frozen land, starting with Abel Tasman and James Cook who both found New Zealand while looking for Terra Australis Incognita (Antarctica).

[Read more about my trip to  the Antarctic Centre here]

Adventurers associated with both Christchurch and Antarctica include Robert Falcon Scott who left from the port of Lyttelton to again try to reach the South Pole after his earlier attempt had failed. Terra Nova returned to the port in 1913 bringing news of the death of Scott and his four companions on their way back from the South Pole.

Norwegian explorer, Roald Amundsen was the first to reach the South Pole in 1911 and later gave a popular public lecture in Christchurch. In gratitude to the Canterbury Museum for their help, he donated the penknife used to cut the flagstaff marking the South Pole; and Irishman Ernest Shackleton who first travelled to Antarctica with Scott but was invalided out and later tried again with his own expedition on Nimrod.

For people bought up in Christchurch during the 50s and 60s – a period of intense activity in the Antarctic  –  ‘Operation Deep Freeze’ and the early morning sound of DC3s heading ‘to the ice’ are part of our imbedded personal history and its seems highly appropriate the International Antarctic Centre should be sited here.

It’s not often that a tourist facility covers science, technology, fun-rides, history, ecology, nature, conservation, and the rescue of penguins, but this one does. It is a modern shop window for Antarctica and a fun, exciting and hands-on experience for all: no wonder it has won so many awards and international acclaim.

Other Antarctic sites to visit in Christchurch, New Zealand include:

• Ferrymead Heritage Park

Contains a huge collection of working machines, including a restored DC3 plane used for US Antarctic supply missions in the 1960s.

• Air Force Museum

Brings together a collection of historic aircraft, including original Beaver and Auster aircraft used in early Antarctic aviation.

• University of Canterbury

The Macmillan Brown Library houses an extensive collection of Antarctic archives. Many of them describe original scientific expeditions to Antarctica and New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands. The University’s central library is also home to the Antarctic Collection.

• Lyttelton

Lyttelton is the port that has serviced Christchurch since the days of early European settlement. It was the last port of call for many of the early expeditions. It is estimated that 50,000 people gathered here on New Years Day 1908 to farewell Nimrod on her journey to Antarctica. Lyttelton continues to be a busy working port and is a refuelling station for several Antarctic supply vessels.

• Christchurch International Airport The Indian Totem Pole of friendship at the entrance to the airport complex was given to Canterbury by the Oregon Centennial Commission and Portland Zoological Society in appreciation of hospitality given to personnel of Operation Deep Freeze. The totem was carved by Chief Lelooska of Oregon in 1959.

• Canterbury Museum

An essential place  to call in the Christchurch Antarctic trail – Check out Amundsen’s nose: it well polished by years of visitors rubbing it!

By its very nature, Antarctica holds great fascination for scientists all over the world. Many countries have bases there from which extensive research is carried out, these include  . . .

New Zealand
Antarctica New Zealand operates this country’s Antarctic Programme at Scott Base, which in 1959 became a permanent base. Antarctica New Zealand’s focus is on initiating, managing and delivering high quality scientific, environmental programmes related to Antarctica.

United States
The United States Antarctic Program has had a close association with Canterbury, since 1928 when Admiral Richard Byrd made his first visit.

In 1955 Byrd assembled seven ships in Lyttelton to support his fifth and last expedition to Antarctica, leaving on 10 December aboard Glacier. Six vessels were spread out across the Southern Ocean between Lyttelton and McMurdo to act as weather stations and rescue vessels for the first flight to Antarctica.
Britain
In 1958 the Commonwealth Trans Antarctic Expedition, led by Vivian Fuchs, with Sir Edmund Hillary, achieved Sir Ernest Shackleton’s goal of crossing the entire Antarctic continent. Hillary’s tractor and Fuch’s snow cat are displayed at the Canterbury Museum.

Italy
Italy established its Antarctic base in Terra Nova Bay, in the Ross Sea, in 1986. The Terra Nova base supports up to 70 people. Italy’s Antarctic Research Programme operates out of the International Antarctic Centre.

rugby world cup and my city

BREAKING NEWS: Christchurch will host Australia, England and Argentina during the Rugby World Cup in 2011.

England will train at QEII during their 19-day stay, Australia at Rugby Park during their 16-day stay in the city and Argentina at Christ’s College during their  23-day stay.

This morning’s announcement was made by Rugby New Zealand 2011 Ltd (RNZ 2011) CEO Martin Snedden  and confirmed teams will stay in 23 different centres.

“We as a nation are passionate about Rugby so it’s fantastic that we can bring RWC 2011 to the backyards of so much of New Zealand,” Snedden said.

read more here

All England, Australian and Argentinean fans sign up for this blog so you get to know whats happing in my city .. and I hope to meet some of you while you are here in my city.

check out some of the photos and stories while you are here  and follow me on twitter .. kiwitravwriter

penguins and the award winning International Antarctic Centre

‘It’s like living in a soap opera’ says the woman feeding the penguins: she had just described how CC ‘doesn’t like water’ and had recently ‘left her old boyfriend for Elvis’, her new one.

CC had been found in Napier by Napier City Council workers (hence the CC) who were digging a storm water drain in West Quay when a digger hit the chicks’ obscured nest and that’s how she came to be rescued and end up living in Christchurch at the New Zealand Penguin Encounter in the International Antarctic Centre.

This is New Zealand’s first combined indoor and outdoor penguin viewing area and it can hold up to 26 Little Blue penguins in its Banks Peninsula natural-themed environment and 80,000 litre pool.  We visitors can see the ‘Little Blues’ above and below water.

All the penguins are birds that have been rescued and with physical disabilities that have left them defenceless, many would not have survived in the wild. Interestingly some of the bird have to wear little blue boots: living in captivity they spend more time on land and get sore feet!

After hand-feeding many of the disabled birds in the water a few who cannot feed in water yet are hand fed. A couple of them climb on Vicky’s lap.

“Climbing in my knee has nothing to do with being friendly or tame, it’s purely wanting the fish” she tells us – despite that, I would love to be so up close and personal with them. It seems that even wild penguins have food preferences, with one of them turning away whenever the ‘wrong variety’ of fish was offered!

It was the blue, painted, penguin footprints-trail that had led us to the centre from the airport. It seemed appropriate that our latest trip here started at the Christchurch airport, departure point for the USA, Italian, and NZ Antarctic flights.  For well over a hundred years, Christchurch has been the starting point for many of the greatest adventures to the ice, firstly from Lyttelton harbour just over the Port Hills and then from Wigram and this airport.

Even today some 70% of the visitors to the frozen continent leave from Christchurch, however, for most of us, this multi-award winning Antarctic Centre is as near to the real thing we’ll get. I have long dreamt of landing on the ice and when Marcus Lush told me he was going to Antarctica to record a TV series (Ice) I was green with envy. Unfortunately, I suspect this centre is as close as I’ll get to the big white continent. However I must confess, every time I enter the indoor polar room and the temperature drops to -18 degrees I revise my daydream – only to change it again once outside and warm.

During the Antarctic storm (every 30 mins) there is great excitement and the authentic blizzard (snow is made monthly) and the audio of a genuine 40 km/h Antarctic winds seems to make the room authentic. The room constantly chilled to -5 degrees and the wind chill machine it drops it further – an admission, I did not use the ice slide although many did.

Christchurch is home to the Antarctic research offices of New Zealand, United States and Italy’s Antarctic programmes, and artists, tourists and explorers have all prepared for their challenges in the city. This means the city’s rich heritage is reflected in museums, walkways, statues and even an Indian Totem Pole of friendship. (See more here)

The International Antarctic Centre is a rich introduction to the continent and acknowledgment of the explorers who, over three centuries, have been spellbound by the awe-inspiring, frozen land, starting with Abel Tasman and James Cook who both found New Zealand while looking for Terra Australis Incognita (Antarctica).

Adventurers associated with both Christchurch and Antarctica include Robert Falcon Scott who left from the port of Lyttelton to again try to reach the South Pole after his earlier attempt had failed. Terra Nova returned to the port in 1913 bringing news of the death of Scott and his four companions on their way back from the South Pole.

Norwegian explorer, Roald Amundsen was the first to reach the South Pole in 1911 and later gave a popular public lecture in Christchurch. In gratitude to the Canterbury Museum for their help, he donated the penknife used to cut the flagstaff marking the South Pole; and Irishman Ernest Shackleton who first travelled to Antarctica with Scott but was invalided out and later tried again with his own expedition on Nimrod.

‘I chilled out at the Christchurch International Antarctic Centre’ says my bright green wrist band: so have a prince, heads of state, lots of children and other people from all over the world.  This wrist band not only allows me to stay all day reading, watching and learning in the centre, but also have a ride on the Hagglund – a 16-seater tracked, polar transport vehicle, the same as the Hagglund all terrain vehicles used in Antarctica by the US and New Zealand Antarctic programmes. We are bumped and spun around as it’s put through its paces, swimming and going up and down steep hills. The 15 minute ride departs every 20 minutes from the front of the Antarctic Centre – the males loved it – I wouldn’t do it again!

For people bought up in Christchurch during the 50s and 60s – a period of intense activity in the Antarctic  –  ‘Operation Deep Freeze’ and the early morning sound of DC3s heading ‘to the ice’ are part of our imbedded personal history and its seems highly appropriate the International Antarctic Centre should be sited here.

It’s not often that a tourist facility covers science, technology, fun-rides, history, ecology, nature, conservation, and the rescue of penguins, but this one does. It is a modern shop window for Antarctica and a fun, exciting and hands-on experience for all: no wonder it has won so many awards and international acclaim.

For the three generations of our family, on our second visit as a family, watching the penguins was the high on our list of ‘the best parts’. “It’s pretty cool, even though they are smelly” says master-10-year-old.

Magical Malaysia

Malaysia, land of contrasts.  You just get used to one sight when another elbows its way in.

Different cultures, religions, nationalities, clothes, food and language jostle with each other on the street.  From sari to mini skirt, from purdah to fashion labels, this, mostly, Muslim country has it all.

If you time your journey for the early months of any year, you will be rewarded with a feast of festivals, each very different. This year Hari Raya was first, followed by Thaipusam and then the Chinese New Year; all celebrated with public holidays in this seemingly tolerant country.

Hari Raya Aidilfitri is the event that follows the end of the Muslim fasting month of Ramadam and is marked by new clothes and feasting as well as gifts to the underprivileged.  If you like shopping, this is also the time of sales!

Thaipusam is the seemingly masochistic event during which Hindu devotees pierce their bodies with hooks and skewers before walking barefoot to the Batu Caves (Kuala Lumpur) or the Waterfall Temple in Georgetown (Penang)

And finally the Chinese New Year, celebrated with all the colours and noise of Asia.  Drums, cymbals, street theatre and opera as well as lion and dragon dances.

After all these, have a vacation from your holiday on an east coast island.  Mid to late February the monsoons have usually finished and I can recommend Pulau Perhentian Kecil, an island amongst the Perhentian group (a marine reserve near the Thai border).  At the Moonlight Chalets on Long Beach clichés come alive.  Think of a quiet tropical island and you will have the picture.  Palm trees, white sand, blue skies, sun, warm seas, fish, coral, butterflies, birds.  Add good food, charming hosts, who remember your name from the time you arrive, add a chalet right on the beach for less than NZ $10, no roads, vehicles or jet-skis and paradise is complete.  If you are looking for sophistication, this is not the place for you: simple, lazy and as the locals say ‘tiada masala’ – no problems.

Arriving is just the beginning of the adventure.  Two hours on a fishing boat from Kuala Besut and you will be transferred to a speedboat for the exhilarating, frightening for some, race for the shore, the final metres surfing.  Make sure valuables are in plastic.  Bags are unloaded and then the decision of which place to stay.  Along with Moonlight, names such as Symfony, Shake Shak and Tooty Frooty (no spelling mistakes by the author) invite you to come stay or eat.  If you’re lucky you may hear tales of pirates, caves, buried treasure and even a ghost or two.

Along with a resplendent resident rooster, iguanas will wander or hurry past you, geckos calls loudly during the night, palm squirrels with bottle-brush tails chase each other up and down palm trees, monkeys swing, play and call from the trees, and mid year the turtles lay their eggs followed by the hatching some 45 days later.

This year I witnessed the final monsoon storm!  48 hours of torrential rain, thunder and lightening, the beach rearranged, little creeks flood, gentle slopes and pathways become waterfalls and rivers.  The generator fails.  Palm trees sway, looking like umbrellas on a windy Wellington street.  A green wheelbarrow, a large blue plastic drum, palm tree trunks and a two-metre iguana were all swept along in the violent rush.  And then the sun returns, and island life begins again.  Snorkelling, jungle walks, reading, beach-combing, swimming, sleeping and for many guests, a necklace ’so you’ll never forget this island.’

This is the island my mind goes to when mediating to relax!

Want a white christmas? How about in Thailand!

The award-winning Phuket spa resort Indigo Pearl is celebrating a ‘White Christmas’ with beach party featuring DJs, fire dancers and a spectacular Christmas themed buffet. A twist on a traditional northern hemisphere “white Christmas” and it is being staged in Arabian-style ‘majili’ tents on the beautiful white sand Nai Yang Beach. ( I spent time on this beach early 2009 and it’s fabulous)

They tell me  DJs  will be “playing 80s and 90s dance favourites, and a bar serving a wide selection of cocktails and mocktails, the Christmas beach buffet features a carving station serving traditional Christmas turkey, honey-glazed ham and roast lamb on a spit, plus a seafood BBQ fiesta including king prawn, lobster, swordfish, tuna and baby octopus.

Appetisers also include an extensive seafood selection of prawn, crab, mussels, oysters, herring roll mops and smoked marlin, salmon and red snapper, along with cold cuts, grilled vegetables and salads.

Festive desserts range from Christmas pudding, Yule log cake, cookies and gingerbread men to kirsch cream with cherries, chocolate tart, Italian trifle, tiramisu and Drambuie panna cotta, chestnut mousse, cheesecake, lime tart, pecan pie and tropical fruit.”

At the end of the evening guests will release a White Kom Loy lantern, a Thai tradition.

Indigo Pearl is a luxury 5-star spa resort distinguished by its fusion of modern architecture and Thailand’s tin-mining heritage, just 10 minutes from Phuket International Airport.

For more information on Indigo Pearl and its various packages please visit: www.indigo-pearl.com.

See a previous blog I wrote about Indigo Pearl here and as a bonus, here is one of their recipes for you to try at home. ( they gave me permission to share this with you)

About Indigo Pearl:

Indigo Pearl resort is a fusion of modern architecture and Thai tin-mining heritage next to Nai Yang Beach, just 10 minutes from Phuket International Airport.

It was voted one of the best new hotels in the world by Condé Nast Traveler (US) in its ‘2007 Hot List’ of top new resorts, spas, restaurants and nightclubs, “Most Stylish Hotel” by ELLE magazine, Singapore, and among the world’s “TOP 50 Dream Resorts” by Honeymoon and Travel magazine.

kiwi-travel-writer checks out local maori history

A woman giggles nervously: a man, wrapped in a ripped blanket, has just had his tattooed face close to hers. He leers then swaggers away. “Even though I know they’re acting, that was scary” I hear her tell her partner.

Musket warrior at Tamaki Village, Christchurch, NZ

Less than an hour ago we had left central Christchurch,  NZ, and were transported back in time to the Tamaki Heritage Village in Ferrymead. ‘Lost in our own land’ re-enacts about two hundred years of turbulent, South Island history when two very different cultures met.

“I have been waiting 150 years to tell you this story” an old man says before we are led, to the sound of flute and chants, past carvings silhouetted against the evening sky, and through native bush to a building where screens show historical footage.

paradise shelduck with ducklings at the village

It is obvious that tonight will not be the usual and popular Maori tourism of kapahaka (dance) and waiata (song) but a mix of acting, technology and period settings.

As we watch the screens, a musket-bearing warrior bursts through the door and another act begins on the 20-acres of open-air set, which tells the thought-provoking story of tribal warfare and Maori caught between the promises of new ways, the values of the past, and coping with European disease, land loss, and alcohol.

“Times have changed. Those with power rule,” he challenges while eyeballing me only inches from my face – I now understand the English tourists’ nervous laughter. We’re no longer merely passive viewers, but people drawn into local stories. He leaves, slamming the door behind him, the relief is almost physical and we relax again as the narrator, who had welcomed us earlier, explains what was happening for Maori with family fighting family as each took sides between the old and new ways.

Past fluffy blankets available for cold nights, and which we don’t need, we too go through the door where we now find ourselves in a Maori village – Matuku-Moana, named for the blue heron abundant on this estuary. Around us villagers are re-enacting life as their ancestors, the Kati Noho people, have lived near here for generations. Women are weaving baskets, footwear and fishing nets; carvers are working on poupou which tell the story of this tribe, and outside the Whare Te Taua (warriors’ house) men and young boys are working on their physical prowess with taiaha.

As I talk to a villager about the healing attributes of plants, which she says she learnt of while training for this role, a conch shell is blown, and the villagers hurriedly gather together, ensuring we visitors are within the safety of the group too. It seems a battle is imminent. Hastily the group is shepherded through the gates and into the safety of the wharenui. Again our narrator-guide talks, telling how the muskets bought trauma – overturning tradition and values.  As she speaks the front of the building opens, revealing a fortified pa, and where a battle takes place between the intimidating musket-warrior and the traditional warrior-chief.

It’s enlightening to watch and learn about part of our history that many have not thought about – that it was not only the settlers and Maori fighting, but also brother fighting brother.

The battle escalates, deaths result and as the tangi continues we walk down the double palisades to board a tram which takes us on an 80-year forward leap: traditional Maori life is behind us and soon the tram pulls up at a Christian church in a fabulous early-New Zealand village.

We watch and hear life as it was, Maori and Pakeha interacting, children at a Native School, opposite the Land Courts squatters have set up camp. Its life in the raw, with prostitutes, sick people, children on the street, and some Europeans trying to ignore what is happening. Outside the General Store the narrator wraps up the evening before leading us across the railway line and past the thirty-plus cast who now welcome us with a haka powhiri and into the wharekai ( dinning room) where we enjoy a splendid traditional meal.

This is not simply the story of two peoples as they came together but, as all good theatre does, it examines the tension that interaction created: between tribes, between individuals, and between cultures. Local or visitor, this is a must-do.

©Heather Hapeta 2008

Look for other posts  on this site (of mine ) about Maori herbs, Maori tours, language etc

tips for how to deal with grief – especially at Christmas

As Christmas approaches many of us find it difficult to deal with our grief. (I am writing this a mother who had a 20-year old son die, a husband die at 35, and about four years experience as a bereavement counsellor many years ago)

Grief is a necessity and privilege, it stems from giving and receiving love. Just as love doesn’t end with death, neither does grief end with the funeral: sometimes our grief is more painful.

There are no rules or simple ways to take away the pain. Sights, sounds and smells bring back pleasure as well as pain and it’s important to find people who will support you, and most importantly, allow you to be yourself.

So, how will you cope with Christmas? Will you make a plan or take it as it comes? Most people find advance planning helpful; just remember that plans are not carved in stone and they can be changed.

By the time the first Christmas arrives most of us have realised that ignoring grief does not make it go away. Conversely, talking about our pain does not make grief worse, although it may feel that way.

Often friends stop talking about the deceased person, (or you may with people who don’t know the person you are grieving). They assume that when you cry they have made you feel bad – as if their talk could increase our pain – and it’s difficult to explain to them that crying is beneficial. I believe it is because they feel uncomfortable with tears rather than their concern for us that stops them talking about our loved one. And we often oblige by not upsetting people … funny how the griever often supports the friend – weird but true.

Friends and family may encourage you to keep active, or to “get on with life”, “you have to let her go’ and other non-helpful advice such as “he wouldn’t want to you keep crying”. I am sure you have heard these and other such homilies.

Keeping busy will not heal grief, in fact, experience shows it often increases our stress and merely postpones or denies the need to talk, feel, and cry. Time heals grief ‘they’ say: not true. It’s what we do with the time that does the healing – ask anyone who has used medication to dull the pain: when the pills, or alcohol, are stopped our pain is still there, just waiting for us to deal with it.

• Remember you are not alone. Find someone to talk to.
• Use your loved ones name. Talk about them, good times, bad times, and other holiday seasons.
• Eliminate as much stress as possible. Plan ahead, keep it simple. Ignore others expectations.
• Involve your children in your discussions and planning – it will help their grief too.
• Do what’s right for you & your family, don’t be pressured into doing things that aren’t OK
• Use whatever form of spirituality is meaningful to you.
• Pace yourself physically and emotionally, be tolerant of your limitations…grief is tiring!
• Christmas will come no matter how much you may not want it. You will survive.
• Remember the worst has already happened!
• Take one day at a time, one hour at a time.
• Anticipation of the event is always worse than the actual day.

HEALING ACTIONS to consider

• Buy a special gift and donate it to a charity in your loved ones name
• Burn a candle over Christmas to symbolise their presence in your thoughts.
• Write a letter to them in your journal. Describe how Christmas is without them.
• Change holiday habits: Christmas breakfast instead of dinner; restaurant instead of home.
• Keep all your holiday habits. For some, the familiar is reassuring.
• Expressing your feelings honestly always helps.
• Volunteer to work at the local mission, old folks home.
• Have a special toast to absent loved ones before the main meal.
• Tie a yellow remembrance ribbon on the Christmas tree – your own tree, or the town one.
• Set aside an evening to look at photos and talk about him or her.
• Make a memory book. Children find this really helpful too.
• Make a list of things you found helpful, share it with others. Keep for next year!

Victoria Park used to be Market Square

Just over the river behind the Christchurch Town Hall and Convention Centre is Victoria Square. (New Zealand) In 1850, swamp covered Christchurch and settlers had to traverse bog to get home after shopping in the market.

Christchurch Town Hall

Those early settlers must have been sorely disillusioned when they first saw the soggy land of their dreams, however they weren’t the first to inhabit this piece of land.

Between 1000 and 1500, the indigenous Maori (who had arrived here from the Pacific) had a settlement here, called Puari. It stretched east from the Otakaro River, and was home for around 800 Waitaha people who gathered eels, whitebait, native trout, ducks, and flounder here.

Pou Pou and ti kouka (cabbage tree)

To mark this village, and acknowledge the cultural value of the site to the Ngai Tahu iwi, a special poupou was commissioned as part of the 1990 commemorations of the 1840 signing of The Treaty of Waitangi: the six-metre, totara, poupou (carved by a local man) was erected in 1994.

The Otakaro river was renamed the Avvon – after a Scottish river – then this too was changed to Avon, and the first bridge to span the river was a cart bridge in 1852. Ten years later the first public lamp was lit at the same market street bridge but kerosene was considered too expensive and the town lighting project was halted for two years.

A post and chain fence (some portions are still in use) was built along in the 1860s to save ‘innocent children and tipsy men alike’ from drowning, as some 30 people had drowned in what now seems an extremely placid river. A new iron bridge replaced the old one in 1864.

A police station and lock-up was built in Market Square (by the 1870s it was being used as a women’s prison), and it also had a blacksmith’s forge and stockyards where farmers tethered their horses while they sold produce. This was the centre of the rural community of Christchurch –the village centre.

Nevertheless the traffic-census on the bridge on one day in 1862 shows how vital Market Square was.

• 10 bullock drays with 58 bullocks
• 51 horse drays with 6o horses
• 36 carts with fifty-one horses
• 199 saddle horses
• 20 cattle
• 204 sheep
• One donkey and cart
• 1000 foot traffic.

An 1861 photo shows wooden homes and business and a post office. One long building with a white gable and verandas around three sides was the Market Hall, and the ‘coffee-palace’ attached to it was most likely the first coffee shop in Christchurch.

In the late 1800s – when the old square was considered an eyesore – the area was renamed Victoria Square to commemorate the queens diamond jubilee. It was put in order with lawns, flowerbeds, and willow trees that are believed to be from cuttings off a tree at Napoleons grave at St Helena.

In the early 1900s the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York lay the foundation stone for the commissioned statue of Queen Victoria. It was also a jubilee memorial to the pioneers of Canterbury, and to those who had died in the Boer War. By the time the statue was unveiled, the queen had died.

Victoria Square has changed many times over the years – the queen has been moved around like a chess piece, the road closed, band rotundas built and removed, and in 1931 a fountain was built. The biggest change came with its new neighbour – the Town Hall, built in the 1960s: it too sits on a historical site.

Capt Cook shares the park with Queen Victoria

The Limes Hospital – where one of the first Alcoholics Anonymous meetings in Christchurch was held – is remembered by The Limes Room. It also has the two largest hand-blown chandeliers in the Southern Hemisphere: made in two pieces, it’s banded with copper with 104 bulbs in each.

Another artwork in the Town Hall is a tapestry that celebrates New Zealand women gaining the vote in 1893 – the first country in the world to achieve this. A plaque also commemorates Douglas Lilburn, New Zealands premier composer.

The whole area is a cornucopia of history – invisible to those who hurry past.

© Heather Campbell Hapeta

Discover Christchurch the hassle free way!

Its always fun to do a  tour in your own city and last week I joined the Hassle-Free ‘Discover Christchurch’ tour for the afternoon, and soon after  I was picked up in Cathedral Square, our guide pointed out the school (Christchurch Girls High) attended by the teenage murderers depicted in Heavenly Creatures

NZ has a great tradition of great movie making – The American Film Institute has called the New Zealand film industry “one of the wonders of the world… an unparalleled success story” see more here

Check out just some of the places we saw –  from the city, out to the University, the beach, and over the hills to the historic port of Lyttelton where  all the settlers arrived.

.

Inveiled 25th January 2009

Note: Hassle-Free Tours (www.hasslefree.co.nz ) also runs  a Lord of the Rings tours to visit the village Edoras, and an Alpine Safari which includes a jet boat, 4×4 vehicles and the TranzAlpinetrain so check their website for up-to-date information. It’s good to be able recommend a local, boutique company.

kiwi travel writer exposes London’s hidden gems

London’s made up of many villages each with their own character and style. It’s one of the most culturally diverse cities in the world and I’ve been taste-testing the food of different ethnic groups. Try Lebanese delights in Edgware Road, Chinese food right next to Soho and Indian food in Brick Road, and Brixton for some Caribbean or African flavours – whatever your tastes, it’s available.

You know the big tourist destinations (see links below) but what about places and events that are less well known: many free. For me it’s the green spaces that make London wonderful: large swathes of uncut grasses are left to flower and seed – attracting butterflies, insects, birds and other wildlife - these contrast with the manicured parts and the ‘keep off the lawn’ signs. Wandering around these parks is a real treat – it’s hard to believe one is in one of the world’s largest cities. Take a picnic lunch and spend time in Greenwich Park that has the meridian time-line, observatory and Maritime Museum, and superb views over much of London and the Thames.

Experience nature in the city at Barnes in West London – home to the Wetlands Centre – both resident and migratory birds are easily seen.  Check the website or phone for special activities.

Within the city there self guided walks – with free maps –around well-known icons of London and other fascinating places along the way. London is a good walking city and the tube also gets you around easily.

Markets are another superb way of seeing Londoners at work and play.  With more than three hundred to chose from there is something for all tastes - Greenwich for arts and crafts, Petticoat Lane for a variety of goodies, Spitalfields for flower lovers and Covent Garden for British made articles. Brixton even has a guided walking tour around the area and markets Camden’s my favourite for its alternative-lifestyle atmosphere and Borough is the place for fabulous food. Open on Fridays and Saturdays you can buy anything from organic food through to black bean chilli, oils and olives, ostrich burgers, cheeses and chocolates – a veritable cornucopia.

Explore Hampstead and its cemetery (Archway Station Northern Line) – one of London’s most celebrated literary and intelligentsia suburbs. This area has more ‘blue plaques’ celebrating its residents than any other London borough: these range from John Keats, Boy George, AA Milne, and Agatha Christie through to Richard Burton, George Orwell, Freud, Twiggy and many others.

The Highgate cemetery (guided tours daily) is divided into two; the West Side is sentimental Victorian – when people didn’t die but were merely sleeping. The East part is still being used: buried within its walls are Karl Marx, George Elliot, Christine Rossetti and Michael Faraday, to name a few. The headstones make interesting reading and are wonderful for atmospheric or spooky, black and white photography.

So once you have seen some shows, once you have done the museums (mostly free) and art galleries, and once you have completed the top ten sights, buy a travel card and explore the many unheralded jewels in this ancient city.

Here is a list of London’s top 10 attractions – including  some which are free.