Happy New Year Thailand

My weapon of choice was a bright green, double-barrelled, pump-action, water pistol. Never has New Year been so much fun!

Everyone is armed. Old and young, all have buckets, bottles, hose’s, urns, water guns and even the fire tender is on hand to add to the total sum of water. Much of the liquid is gold coloured and yellow flowers float in it. The crowd is sprayed, monks and police officers are as wet as everyone else is. The smiling Thais love to see Farangs (foreigners) joining in the celebrations and fun.

What is all this festivity about? It’s a festival called Songkhran in Thailand and each April Buddhists observe the Buddhist New Year.

Buddha images are doused with water and carried in processions around the temple and streets to the accompaniment of music, laughter, and water water water! The water blesses and purifies everything. Homes are cleaned with ready for family and friends visiting to celebrate new beginnings.

My first day, of the three of the fun and games, was at the temple Wat Phochai in the little city of Nong Khai on the banks of the mighty Mekong River (bordering Laos) and off the tourist trail, I was one of only five or six visitors there so became a real target for being constantly blessed – by being doused.

“Farang, farang” the cry goes up.

“No! No!” I join in the fun, “Khon Thai. Khon Thai” I call. They laugh at this visitor thinking she is Thai.  By nine in the morning I’m soaking wet –  long before I’ve reached the temple steps.

The atmosphere is a mixture of reverence and fun, prayers and laughter, dancing and music.

‘Come with us – come’ a woman calls. Captured, or adopted, by a family as they dance out of the temple grounds, I too dance after the pied-piper-like man playing his khaen, a flute-like reed instrument.

At their home we dance in the yard and eat whole fish, soup and sticky rice.  The children play with my gun, spraying everyone as we dance, ensuring we stay dripping wet.

The men, particularly gentle and graceful dancers, teach me the moves. “Like this” says the father and I awkwardly copy him.

Early in the afternoon I join a truck with the staff from the First Global Community College, and become part of an endless procession through the streets. Armed with large, water-filled urns and my gun, we drive into town. It’s our turn to throw water over everyone we meet; other trucks, pedestrians, police on point duty.

‘No exceptions’ they tell me ‘everyone gets wet’.

Amid all this water the sky joins in – in the middle of the dry season an unexpected storm arrives. Squashed, sun-dried frogs and snakes re-hydrate.  Red orange, purple and yellow petals fall to the ground under the onslaught, and a few kind water throwers add warm water to their water containers. By now it’s getting chilly and we stop for coffee, sheltering under a garage roof along with a huge pig!

There is a serious side to all the jubilation too. I’m honoured to witness adult children pouring water over their parents cupped hands, asking for forgiveness for past wrongs and blessings for the future. They also gave gifts, a new shirt for Dad, a shawl for Mother along with gold candles, and money.

For three days the water, powder, tooting horns, music, laughter, prayers and blessings continue.  It was wonderful to be absorbed into the celebrations and see some authentic Thai life. Many, perhaps most, travellers hate being wet for so long: for me it was the best New Year I ever celebrated.

One comment

  1. Hi Heather
    Great post, gives your readers a real grassroots feel about this wonderful festival, enjoyed not only by the famous “Songkhran” cities of Chiang Mai & Bangkok but also the smaller rural communities like Nong Khai & Chaiyaphum in Isaan, northern Thailand which is where were are celebrating the new Thai Year this year.

    Best Wishes
    Kevin

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